A white statue of a Majorera goat, the horned breed whose milk is used to make Fuerteventura's queso majorero cheese

Photo: Jfv75 (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons

Antigua, Fuerteventura

Museo del Queso Majorero

The island's cheese, its goats and a windmill you can climb — in one courtyard.

The Museo del Queso Majorero in Antigua tells the story of Fuerteventura through the thing the island does best: queso majorero, the goat's cheese that in 1996 became the first Canarian cheese to win a protected designation of origin. The museum shares a walled courtyard with the restored Molino de Antigua windmill, a cactus garden, a craft shop and a café, which makes it one of the easiest half-days inland from Caleta de Fuste.

Why the cheese matters here

Fuerteventura is dry, windy and stony, and for most of its history it fed itself on goats rather than crops. The Majorera goat is native to the island, bred to get by on almost nothing, and there have long been more of them here than there are people. Queso majorero is what that arrangement produces: a firm cheese with a distinct tang, eaten fresh, semi-cured or cured, and in 1996 the first cheese in the Canary Islands to be granted a protected designation of origin, which set the standard the rest followed.

Look at a whole wheel and you will see the diamond pattern pressed into its sides — the mark of the traditional mould made from plaited palm leaf, still copied in modern moulds today. The rind may be rubbed with paprika, which gives the cured wheels their red exterior, or with gofio or oil. The museum walks through all of it, and it opens the story much wider than cheese: the volcanic formation of the island, the aboriginal population, the arrival of livestock, and how a herding economy shaped the landscape you have been driving through. The displays are hands-on enough to keep children going, including a sit-down virtual goat-milking that is usually the first thing they run to.

The windmill, the garden and practicalities

The ticket covers more than the exhibition. In the same courtyard stands the Molino de Antigua, a restored gofio windmill you can climb inside to see the grinding gear and get a view over the village and the plain beyond. Around it is a well-planted cactus garden, a craft shop selling Canarian work, and a café where you can sit in the courtyard with wine and a plate of cheese. The tasting is normally charged on top of the entrance ticket.

Opening hours run daily, roughly 10am to 6pm from May to October and 9.30am to 5.30pm from November to April. Entry is in the region of five euros for adults and three for children, with Canarian residents paying about half, and combined tickets covering the salt museum at Salinas del Carmen and the Los Molinos interpretation centre work out well if you are seeing more than one. Prices are revised periodically, so treat those as a guide. Allow an hour to an hour and a half. Buy cheese in the shop before you leave — a cured majorero travels home perfectly well and is a far better souvenir than anything on a resort shelf.

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